the unwash: exclusive interview

Dana Thomas is no stranger to the world of sustainable fashion. The fashion and culture journalist who resides as British Vogue’s European Sustainability Editor sees fashion and clothing as an integral part of our lives with a deep need for sustainable change. Fashion is intertwined with culture and the human experience which Dana dives into through her work as a journalist and New York Times Best Selling author. The Unwash sat down with Dana to discuss her work, the future of the fashion industry, and what living a sustainable lifestyle means to her.

Have you always considered yourself to be an environmentalist? If not, where did the inspiration come from to make this a main focal point of your work? 

As a child of the 1970s, environmentalism—or what we called “ecology” back then—has always been a part of my life. Our student teachers were hippies, who took classes outside, to sit on the grass, to learn. We planted trees on Earth Day. My family always had an organic vegetable garden, and so have I. But it has only recently become part of my work because the subject has finally come front and center in the news—finally, the papers have climate desks and climate reporters. And the devastating impact the fashion industry has on the planet can no longer be ignored. I have long covered fashion as a serious news beat, with an investigative journalism approach—thanks to my upbringing at the Washington Post in the late 1980s and early 1990s. For a long time, I was the only one reporting on the subject in that manner. But with the Paris Climate Agreement, and pending legislation in Europe and the US, the environment is becoming a central part of covering fashion—including digging up the stuff that the brands don’t want consumers to see. It’s kept me busy!

Out of all of the great conversations you’ve had on your podcast, which episode would you suggest first for someone new to learning about sustainability? 

I think the one with Amber Valletta, the supermodel-turned-activist, is truly informative and inspiring. She talks about the heavy stuff but in an accessible way. And she shows that anyone can get involved and have a positive impact.

What does sustainability look like to you within your daily life?

I bike wherever I am—in Paris, where I live; in Milan, New York, and London, when I travel. As I said, I have an organic garden in the country (and a compost pile), and when I’m in the city, I shop on Sundays at the organic market. I shop my closet—I keep my clothes and re-wear them for years. The other night, I wore a 25-year-old dress to dinner, and everyone loved it and said it was so chic. I have shoes resoled. I buy well—no fast fashion in our house. We recycle, of course, and turn old sheets, towels, and T-shirts into rags. There’s always a pile of mending to be done. I use environment-friendly detergents, and biodegradable, natural shampoo and soap. If I have the choice between a train and a plane, I always take a train. I drive old cars—a 1964 Mustang, and a 1968 Fiat, which only has two cylinders, and requires a visit to the gas station twice a year. Though the next cars will be electric. I wish the Mustang EV wasn’t so ugly!

Whether you’re a fashion aficionado or a sustainability newbie, Dana’s work offers a unique perspective and profound depth to expand our viewpoints on large-scale topics. The Green Dream Podcast with Dana Thomas brings in a variety of guests to discuss sustainability, science, and fashion, and how they intertwine with our personal experiences. Her latest book Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes discusses the real, human price of fast fashion, providing a deeper understanding of the larger implications the fashion industry has. All of which are topics she dives into in her newly launched newsletter The Style Files. Sustainability looks and feels different to everyone, being embodied in a multitude of ways, how Dana has honed in on the fashion industry opens up the conversation for deeper change.

the unwash: social impact

Consumers are hungrier than ever to cultivate connections with their favorite brands but are brands able to deliver the level of authentic connection people are craving? More than ever the power has been put into the consumers’ hands. Brands that are founder-led have skyrocketed into popularity and have had an innate ability to not only create a connection with their audience but also establish trust. Ultimately, consumers are just wanting brands to keep it real and when they don’t – the windfall is steep. Overall, there’s a large yearning for depth, not just a recognizable logo. Consumers are turning to brands that are creating a community culture, not just selling great products.

Over the past few years, authenticity has risen to the forefront of consumers’ minds – a drastic shift from a world where big marketing schemes, billboards, and tantalizing commercials ruled the industry. In the age of social media people don’t need large-scale advertisements that were once needed to be able to sell a product. The ability to share individual experiences with a product is at our fingertips, whether that be for better or worse. Perfection is no longer the goal. Brands are leaning into the curiosity to pull back the curtain and show what happens behind the scenes, something that larger brands are typically unable to do successfully in a way that feels authentic for viewers. The ability to create a level of realness around a brand is a daunting task, especially in a hyper-critical age but, people more and more are being drawn to something that feels relatable.

the unwash: exclusive interview

After earning a degree in textile science and finding herself in a job that required constant travel, Megan Graham wanted to find a solution for travel-sized products that weren’t fitting her needs and ultimately ended up in the trash. The thought of frequent waste that was being created from these products became a point of frustration that she wanted to find a solution for. This was eventually tabled for a successful marketing career at Vogue and Condé Nast until the itch returned and Megan knew she could create a product for consumers like herself and fill a much-needed gap in the market. Whether it be buying travel-sized products that aren’t your personal favorites or trying to use drug store refillable bottles that leak or break both of these created more stress and unsatisfactory experiences for an on-the-go routine. Megan left her corporate job at Condé Nast to launch Ries – a solutions-oriented company founded to make our travel routines simpler and more streamlined. Ries is a more practical travel option that doubles as a sustainable solution for plastic waste. Their TSA-approved travel bottles are the perfect travel buddy. Created from post-consumer recycled materials that are dishwasher safe, they are made to last and create less waste in the process. We sat down with Megan to discuss sustainability, the process of launching a startup, and the future of Ries. 

What was the process of deciding to go from a corporate job to being the founder of a company? 

I worked in fashion forecasting, marketing, and advertising for most of my career and I really loved it but my first role in trend forecasting was full-time remote, before it was the norm. I loved the autonomy of that role. It put me in better touch with my intuition, decision-making, and being able to think on my feet. I realized because of that freedom the perfect role for me was to build something how I wanted to. I appreciate being out in the world like I was in my first role. When it came to making this shift to running a business – I had this idea that I had a strong feeling about what I wanted to go after. Shifting from office life to running a business was an easy shift for me. Switching back to this autonomous life is such a confidence boost.

Now that you’re in Sephora, what is next for Ries?

We have more products coming out, we get lots of questions about new colors so we are launching new colors this year. We have more products coming out that tie into circularity with a focus on recycled materials. Overall these will be focused on the process of making the transition to a more sustainable on-the-go routine. Think – simplifying your routine, making it more sustainable and more mobile. I built this brand for myself so I’m thinking about what you need when going to the gym, on a flight. What are these things I want to improve upon and make the experience better? More non-container things are coming but can’t say too much yet. We’re moving into new spaces as well. I can’t say too much yet but there are lots more to come that you’ll be hearing about closer to the summer.

Ries landed in Sephora within its first year of being on the market and is the first refillable travel bottle to be on the retailer’s shelves. Throughout our conversation with Megan, thoughts around ‘doing the best with what is available to us now’ was frequently brought up and how as brands and consumers this is something to lean into. Brands like Ries are making sustainable solutions while also emphasizing creating a positive customer experience for on-the-go product usage – which we shouldn’t have to sacrifice even when traveling. Megan hinted that there could be further retailer expansion in the future but for any Ries news, we’ll be anxiously awaiting and ready to give everyone the full scoop.

Use code UNWASH15 for 15% off your purchase at ries-ries.com

the unwash: exclusive interview

Fashion designer Anna Molinari’s TikTok went viral upon her first posting in 2020 of her upcycled designs using unconventional materials – mainly trash. The intrigue in her designs propelled Anna to become a full-fledged upcycler and to use her platform to fuel her passion for sustainable fashion. Many are familiar with Anna’s work for her viral dress that provided social and political commentary on social justice movements and the COVID-19 pandemic. The dress was made from newspaper clippings about the pandemic and the resurgence of the Black Lives Matter movement – both intersecting historical moments in United States history. The design included a mask and slit to show a band-aid for the wearer’s Coronavirus vaccine. The dress sparked a meaningful response from viewers resulting in Anna citing this moment as being one she is most proud of as a young designer. Now her platform has over 300,000 followers where she shares her brand’s designs and shares tips on how to begin upcycling. The Unwash sat down with Anna to discuss her takes on sustainable fashion, the responsibility that comes with having a large platform, and her design goals.

What sparked your passion for sustainability within your designs? 

I’ve been making clothes since I was eight years old and it all started from watching a marathon of Project Runway. I felt so inspired and fell in love with the concept of fashion. As I was watching the marathon I made my first shirt and from then on I’ve never questioned that it was what I’m supposed to do. My parents taught me to fund my passion so I unintentionally became very scrappy, using mostly second-hand materials from the jump. As I got older and went to college for fashion I began to learn more about the textile industry and how detrimental it is to the environment. This was further confirmation for me that I need to be using second-hand materials. Throughout my education I experimented with sculpture, using recycled materials, I loved working with weird and unconventional materials. In 2020 the second video I posted on TikTok got over a million views where I was showing these sculpture pieces using unconventional materials like a dress I made out of plastic straws. That further solidified that I wanted to keep going down this path. Sustainability has always been at my core and TikTok gives me a larger sense of responsibility to promote sustainability.

Out of all of your designs, which is your favorite? 

Hands down, the newspaper dress. The reaction I got from that dress gives me butterflies when I think about it. People would reach out to me telling me they lost a family member and they felt that the dress memorialized them or people of color reaching out to express that the dress made them feel heard. People were able to find something positive through this dress. We need things that both liberate us and bring us together, for me that’s through fashion.

You’ve had lots of amazing opportunities such as NYFW, Julia Fox wearing your design, and being on Upcycle Nation. What has been the most memorable?

Other than the reactions from the newspaper dress, the coolest moment was Upcycle Nation. One of the judges is big in the upcycling community, Cho. He was having his debut fashion week collection after the show aired and he reached out to me to assist him. I worked with him on castings and fittings, even making two of the dresses and styling. It was cool making such a genuine connection with a mentor. It was great to have him bring me up with him and it was a full-circle moment. This past fashion week was the most surreal moment I’ve had so far. 

Out of all of the materials you’ve used, what is your favorite and what do you hope to experiment with next? 

Plastic bags are my favorite for the graphics and how recognizable they are. I’m currently collecting bread bag tabs so that might be next but I’m wanting to get more unconventional. 

What impact do you hope to have on the industry? 

I want people to be more aware of what they are buying and I want people to look for alternatives before making a fast fashion or luxury purchase. I want people to think harder when they shop and for people to be more thoughtful. 

Do you have a sustainability tip for beginners?

I would encourage people to keep their trash for a week and sort it to then look at the recycling rules in their town. Through collecting my own trash I’ve learned a lot about what I’m doing wrong and I think it’s an important experience to learn from.

Anna’s platform is a source of creativity for her viewers and provides tangible ways to find sustainable solutions. Her brand, Instinct Brand brings her upcycling creations to consumers and continues to grow in popularity with a new drop that is releasing soon. While referencing brands that inspire her HODA COVA was a notable mention which recently landed a collaboration with Gucci to upcycle the brand’s belts into purses. Bringing upcycling into the luxury space is a huge milestone that hopefully continues to grow. Young designers like Anna Molinari are using their platforms to create change and inspire their audience to learn more about their social impact.

Keep up with Anna on TikTok at @annamolinstinct and Instagram @annamo.1