the unwash: social impact

It feels like every brand is coming out with different collaborations in an attempt to create allure and cultivate consumer activity, though it’s less of a feeling and more of a reality. The tactic is nothing new but the latest trend, if you dare call it that, is celebrity and influencer-backed sustainable collections for fast fashion companies. An oxymoron at best. Whether it be celebrity-backed or not, sustainable capsule collections among fast fashion mega brands are turning into common practice. Even resale programs from brands such as Shein, Pretty Little Thing, and Zara meant to make for easier sustainable shopping launched last year but in reality, are riddled with mixed messages and greenwashing tactics. These collaborations and collections mark a shift in consumer interest yet fall flat on providing a meaningful outcome. 

The 2022 Boohoo announcement naming Kourtney Kardashian as the brand’s new sustainability ambassador had everyone rubbing their eyes making sure they read the headlines right. In 2020 the brand came under fire for unethical labor practices where it was found that workers were being paid as little as £3.50 an hour. Boohoo was also involved in a class action lawsuit with other fast fashion brands Pretty Little Thing and Nasty Gal for inflating original prices to make a greater profit on sale items. In the same year, Vice found that Boohoo releases as many as 700 new garments a week. The Kourtney Kardashian ambassadorship was meant to start the process of the company turning a new leaf to have more sustainable and ethical actions. Even for this collection the sustainability efforts were minuscule at best and still used fabrics such as polyester that does not biodegrade such as natural fibers. This wasn’t a surprise or even much of a shock, rather the controversy came from the marketing around it being labeled as a ‘sustainable’ collection garnered angry reactions but wasn’t anything new in terms of the mega-celebrity fast fashion deal that we see on repeat.

The Slow Factory partnership is something we are seeing more often as some textile innovation companies or other innovation brands work to bring more sustainable resources to fashion. It’s easy to want to shame these collaborators especially when outside of this instance are doing remarkable work while on the other hand, there’s an acknowledgement of both the financial opportunity and ability to reach a larger audience through these opportunities. Ultimately it’s not the brand’s fault that the market and demand for fast fashion have made it so that smaller companies have to compromise their values for monetary needs. 

These collaborations prompt larger discussions around disclosure information, ethical production, and sustainability standards. To make it simple, a sustainable line from a fast fashion brand isn’t true sustainability, or even close to it. Fast fashion brands provide easy accessibility with their wide size range, low cost, and fast shipping but this comes with a human and environmental cost that is so often ignored by both consumers and the brands themselves. Celebrity-endorsed sustainable collections are the new greenwashing tactic to continue to lure in consumers especially those who are on the precipice of making more conscious purchases but aren’t armed with proper information on greenwashing to combat the impressive yet misleading marketing. So what can we do? Education and information are crucial, especially in a disinformation age. Taking a moment to truly question if and why we need something is second. Embracing slow fashion also means to slow down. Fast fashion gets us by pushing the consumer to make fast and easy purchases with no thorough thought. Not everything is worth a click or worth your money even if it seems like a great step towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Take a moment to understand the possible implications of your purchase and what it means to support these so-called sustainable collections.

the unwash: exclusive interview

Dana Thomas is no stranger to the world of sustainable fashion. The fashion and culture journalist who resides as British Vogue’s European Sustainability Editor sees fashion and clothing as an integral part of our lives with a deep need for sustainable change. Fashion is intertwined with culture and the human experience which Dana dives into through her work as a journalist and New York Times Best Selling author. The Unwash sat down with Dana to discuss her work, the future of the fashion industry, and what living a sustainable lifestyle means to her.

Have you always considered yourself to be an environmentalist? If not, where did the inspiration come from to make this a main focal point of your work? 

As a child of the 1970s, environmentalism—or what we called “ecology” back then—has always been a part of my life. Our student teachers were hippies, who took classes outside, to sit on the grass, to learn. We planted trees on Earth Day. My family always had an organic vegetable garden, and so have I. But it has only recently become part of my work because the subject has finally come front and center in the news—finally, the papers have climate desks and climate reporters. And the devastating impact the fashion industry has on the planet can no longer be ignored. I have long covered fashion as a serious news beat, with an investigative journalism approach—thanks to my upbringing at the Washington Post in the late 1980s and early 1990s. For a long time, I was the only one reporting on the subject in that manner. But with the Paris Climate Agreement, and pending legislation in Europe and the US, the environment is becoming a central part of covering fashion—including digging up the stuff that the brands don’t want consumers to see. It’s kept me busy!

Out of all of the great conversations you’ve had on your podcast, which episode would you suggest first for someone new to learning about sustainability? 

I think the one with Amber Valletta, the supermodel-turned-activist, is truly informative and inspiring. She talks about the heavy stuff but in an accessible way. And she shows that anyone can get involved and have a positive impact.

What does sustainability look like to you within your daily life?

I bike wherever I am—in Paris, where I live; in Milan, New York, and London, when I travel. As I said, I have an organic garden in the country (and a compost pile), and when I’m in the city, I shop on Sundays at the organic market. I shop my closet—I keep my clothes and re-wear them for years. The other night, I wore a 25-year-old dress to dinner, and everyone loved it and said it was so chic. I have shoes resoled. I buy well—no fast fashion in our house. We recycle, of course, and turn old sheets, towels, and T-shirts into rags. There’s always a pile of mending to be done. I use environment-friendly detergents, and biodegradable, natural shampoo and soap. If I have the choice between a train and a plane, I always take a train. I drive old cars—a 1964 Mustang, and a 1968 Fiat, which only has two cylinders, and requires a visit to the gas station twice a year. Though the next cars will be electric. I wish the Mustang EV wasn’t so ugly!

Whether you’re a fashion aficionado or a sustainability newbie, Dana’s work offers a unique perspective and profound depth to expand our viewpoints on large-scale topics. The Green Dream Podcast with Dana Thomas brings in a variety of guests to discuss sustainability, science, and fashion, and how they intertwine with our personal experiences. Her latest book Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes discusses the real, human price of fast fashion, providing a deeper understanding of the larger implications the fashion industry has. All of which are topics she dives into in her newly launched newsletter The Style Files. Sustainability looks and feels different to everyone, being embodied in a multitude of ways, how Dana has honed in on the fashion industry opens up the conversation for deeper change.