the unwash • sustainability

The words sustainable and fashion don’t typically go together. There are efforts toward making the fashion industry more sustainable but to be truly sustainable is to consume less. Despite the contradictory nature of these two concepts, a concerted effort toward making the fashion industry more mindful and less wasteful is a necessary step in the right direction. The organizer of New York Fashion Week, the Council of Fashion Designers of America, pledged for the event to reach net-zero status by 2050 but are they anywhere close to achieving that goal? While many individual designers had a focus for their shows and collections to be more cognizant of their environmental impacts, unlike its Copenhagen counterpart NYFW as an event, takes a more backseat approach to environmentalism. 

It’s interesting to speculate if NYFW could thrive similarly to CPHFW with their more rigid sustainability requirements since the markets between the two countries are drastically different. Many designers have praised CPHFW’s guidelines as it paves the way for more out-of-the-box and innovative thinking to create collections that reflect inclusivity and conservation efforts. In many ways, NYFW seemingly lacks this forward-thinking, especially with debuting collections such as a Boohoo collaboration that reeks of greenwashing. A question to ponder is whether implementing stricter sustainability standards reflects the values of the broader American market. Or, could such a change prompt the greater industry to follow suit?

Their first time showing at NYFW, Black Boy Knits, a CFDA & Vogue Fashion Fund finalist, debuted a collection dedicated to the founder of the brand’s identity as a queer black immigrant. The brand turns knitwear into works of art and encourages that knitwear is far more than a single piece in an overall look. Black Boy Knits is a small batch company where all pieces are made to order in Brooklyn, NY. Also debuting this season was Mirror Palais. The founder of Mirror Palais, Marcelo Gaia, has been outspoken about the unethical working conditions within the fast fashion industry and works to ensure fair wages and safe working environments for his brand – which is handmade in New York. The collection utilized deadstock fabrics and told a story about Gaia’s experience growing up gay within the Catholic church.

Bobblehaus, Mia Vesper, and Elena Velez were standouts from the week, incorporating sustainability and inclusivity for their spring/summer collections. NYFW and the brands involved have made strides in working towards their net-zero status goal, inclusivity, and focusing on more ethical practices, but there is still a long way to go. Brands that held these values at the forefront of their collections made a strong stance in creating much-needed change. 

the unwash • sustainability

Patagonia is no stranger to taking a firm stance on its commitment to the environment and environmental economics, but the beloved outdoor brand recently took this a step further. Upon the 50th anniversary of the company’s inception, founder Yvon Chouinard and his family announced that the company would be handing over control to a trust and non-profit – instead of taking the company public or selling. 100% of profits that are not directly going back into the business will be distributed through the Holdfast Collective to contribute to fighting the climate crisis. Although the family will continue to have majority stock in the company through the Patagonia Purpose Trust, Yvon didn’t want to be part of the billionaire culture of not using their immense wealth for positive change. For 50 years, Patagonia has created a standard of what being a responsible business means and is continuing to make strides while thinking about the company’s future.

The brand is valued at nearly 3 billion dollars and continues to grow. From a consumer standpoint, their steadfast dedication to climate conservation helps to draw more people to the brand. Yvon discussed the idea of selling the company and donating all of the profits but ultimately wanted to keep the integrity of the brand’s values for consumers and employees. In a statement made after announcing the change in business structure for Patagonia, Yvon stated that part of their decision to go this route was because “even public companies with good intentions are under too much pressure to create short-term gain at the expense of long-term vitality and responsibility. Truth be told, there were no good options available. So, we created our own”. When companies are acquired, the ethos of the brand often begins to dissolve as profitability becomes the largest concern. Small and large companies face the problem of navigating how to stay true to what initially drew in consumers. Patagonia found a way to pave its own path with restructuring to remain true to its environmental and social values.